JMT Basics

Date Established:  May 17, 1915 – by a bill in the California State Legislature, signed by Gov. Hiram Johnson

First Thru-Hike:  July 1, 1908 – LeConte Expedition

Trail Length: 213.7 mi – from the northern terminus at the Yosemite Conservation Heritage Center (formerly LeConte Memorial Lodge) to the summit of Mt. Whitney

Public Lands:  6 land manager entities – Yosemite National Park, Sequoia National Park, Kings Canyon National Park, Inyo National Forest, Sierra National Forest, and Devil’s Postpile National Monument.

Highest Point:  Mt Whitney, 14,505′

Elevation Gain/Loss:  46,000′ gain/38,000′ loss hiking southbound

High Sierra Passes:  10 passes – Cathedral Pass, Donohue Pass, Island Pass, Silver Pass, Seldon Pass, Muir Pass, Mather Pass, Pinchot Pass, Glen Pass, Forester Pass

The JMT goes over 10 High Sierra passes. The highest of these is Forester Pass (13,100′) at the boundary between Kings Canyon National Park and Sequoia National Park. The highest point on the trail is the southern terminus on the summit of Mt. Whitney (14,505′).

The trail is traditionally hiked southbound, starting in Yosemite Valley and finishing on the summit of Mt. Whitney. Although of course, you’ll still need to hike another 11 miles down to the Whitney Portal before you’re truly done! Heading southbound has the benefit of starting at a lower elevation, allowing the hiker to acclimatize and tackle the higher-elevation passes once they’re adjusted to being at altitude. In this direction, you will gain 46,000′ and lose 38,000′.

In recent years, many hikers have preferred hiking northbound in order to get the hardest passes out of the way at the beginning of their trip. While you’ll be heading up Mt. Whitney with your pack at its heaviest, you’ll have the benefit of the sun at your back for the rest of your hike. If you’re choosing to hike the trail northbound, be sure that you are adequately prepared for strenuous activity at high elevations.

Another significant factor in choosing your direction is simply which permits you’re able to get. As the trail has grown in popularity, it’s become harder and harder to get permits from Yosemite Valley. There are numerous options for workarounds, whether you choose to skip the Valley and start in Tuolumne, hike the trail in sections, or start farther south and tack on extra miles before entering the Whitney zone. We’ll discuss this in further detail in the Permits section below.

Permits

As the John Muir Trail has continually grown in popularity, permits become harder to get every year. There is actually no distinct JMT permit; instead, you’re looking to get a permit out of specific trailheads. For JMT thru-hikers, this usually means either Happy Isles in Yosemite Valley or the Whitney Portal.

Follow the link here to an article written by our Advisory Council member Inga Aksamit about obtaining permits at the various entry-points to the JMT, or expand the sections below for more info.

Happy Isles is the official northern starting trailhead for the JMT. There is a daily hiker quota for Donohue Pass, which you will cross over right before leaving the national park and entering Inyo National Forest. If you want to backpack on the JMT and cross over Donohue Pass, you must use a permit for either Happy Isles or Lyell Canyon trailhead in Tuolumne, the only two that account for the Donohue quota.

60% of permits are available by lottery 24 weeks before your desired start date. You can apply weekly, and there is a non-refundable $10 processing fee to Rec.Gov each time you enter the lottery plus an additional $5 fee per person if you win the permit.

40% of the permits will be available 7 days in advance of each start date on Rec.Gov until 3 days before the start date.

Any remaining permits will be available as walk-ups at wilderness centers in Yosemite on the start date of the trip.

The permit process is tricky, so be sure to read the full list of steps and rules carefully.

To start the JMT from the Whitney Portal trailhead, you will apply for an overnight Whitney Permit. Enter the $6 permit lottery on Rec.Gov for all summer dates between February 1st and March 1st. Lottery results are published in mid-March, and then any unclaimed permits will be released for purchase in late April.

If you’re willing to hike extra miles or skip certain parts of the trail, there are other trailheads that you may have an easier time getting permits from. The next closest trailhead to the northern terminus of the JMT that allows you to cross over Donohue Pass is Lyell Canyon out of Tuolumne Meadows. The permit process is the same for the Happy Isles trailhead under the Yosemite section above, and you will only miss out on about 23 miles of the JMT.

If you’re starting in the south and hiking northbound but are struggling to get one of the competitive permits out of the Whitney Portal, another option is to start at Horseshoe Meadows. You’ll hike over Cottonwood Pass and get on the PCT until it joins the JMT in Crabtree Meadow and follow the trail to Mt. Whitney’s summit. It is approximately 30 miles from the trailhead to the summit, and you will apply for permits through Inyo National Forest on Rec.Gov.

 

There are also numerous access trails for section hiking the JMT on both the east and west sides of the Sierra depending on how far you’re willing to hike! Below is the list of Inyo National Forest JMT access trailheads.

Along with your hiking permit, you will also need a free California Campfire Permit. These are required on federal lands for both open fires and portable camp stoves. Click below to fill out your contact info, watch a short video, and take the required quiz before printing the permit.

Transportation

There are two bus systems that can take you nearly everywhere you need to go along the length of the JMT. The Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System (YARTS) bus runs through Yosemite National Park and can take you to Mammoth Lakes, Merced, and Fresno with stops along the way. The Eastern Sierra Transit (EST) bus has a route running down Highway 395 from Reno to Lone Pine with convenient stops in Lee Vining, Mammoth Lakes, Bishop, and Independence.

 

 

Although the buses can get you into the various towns along the Eastern Sierra, you still have to get to the actual trailheads! Below is a list of shuttle services to various trailheads with contact info.

The Eastern Sierra has many of the JMT’s access trails, but it’s a remote region and can be hard to access. The two closest airports are in Reno, NV and Bishop, CA. Reno offers many more flights and you can easily rent a car from there or use the Eastern Sierra Transit bus that connects the airport to numerous towns in the Eastern Sierra. Flying into Bishop will get you closer to the trailheads, but the current summer 2024 schedule is planning for a single daily United Airlines flight from San Francisco.

 

There is long-term parking available at both ends of the JMT in the backpacker’s lot near Curry Village in Yosemite and at the Whitney Portal trailhead, although the parking here may be competitive to snag in peak summer months. With active bears in both areas, make sure not to leave any food behind in your vehicle, or you may come back to broken windows!

Resupply

Depending on how long a hiker plans to be out on the trail, they may resupply at just one of these locations or all of them! Click below to read the specifics for each resupply spot, or follow the link here to an article about resupplying on the JMT written by our Advisory Council member Inga Aksamit.

Only 23 miles from the northern terminus in Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne is not a necessary resupply location, but it can be useful for hikers wanting to keep their packs lighter for the first steep climbing coming out of the Valley or for the hikers heading northbound who want a last boost before finishing the trail. Food packages can be mailed to the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office at:

(Your Name)
c/o General Delivery
Tuolumne Meadows
Yosemite National Park, CA 95389
Arriving by: (ETA)

The post office is also connected to the Tuolumne Meadows Store where hikers can purchase additional snacks or necessities, like bug spray, sunscreen, or fuel.

Note: Tuolumne’s opening date varies based on how much snow the Sierra received that winter and when Tioga Road is able to be cleared; after particularly heavy winters, the store might not open. Track updates via the National Park Service website, or call the post office at (209) 372-4475.

Red’s Meadow is the standard first resupply spot for southbound JMT hikers. About 60 miles from Yosemite Valley, hikers tend to reach it between days 3 and 7, which is a very reasonable amount of food to carry for the first section. Red’s Meadow Resort has both a cafe and a well-stocked general store that is open from 7 am – 7 pm. For your resupply, use either a cardboard box or a 5-gallon plastic bucket to mail your food via USPS to:

(Your Name)
Red’s Meadow Resort
PO Box 395
Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546

You also need to fill out the form on the linked page below and mail that in advance with an enclosed $40 to authorize Red’s Meadow Resort to pick up and store your package.

 

It’s also possible to take the shuttle into the town of Mammoth Lakes if you need a more robust resupply or want to check out some of the summer events like live music in the Village or Shakespeare in the Woods!

 

Note: there is ongoing construction occurring on the Red’s Meadow road in summer 2024. There will be intermittent closures throughout the season limiting access. Be sure to check the Inyo National Forest website for current schedules and restrictions.

Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR) isn’t directly on the JMT, but it’s a fairly easy 4.5-mile detour from the 88-mile point when heading southbound. There is also a ferry that can take you across Lake Thomas Edison for a fee, cutting a couple of miles from your hike. Many hikers will choose to resupply at either VVR or Muir Trail Ranch since there are less than 20 miles between them. If you’re looking for more amenities, VVR offers hot showers, coin-operated laundry machines, a restaurant, and a well-stocked store.

VVR has very precise requirements to follow when shipping a resupply. Be sure to read the instructions carefully to ensure that your package is accepted. Using either a box or a 5-gallon bucket clearly labeled with your name and estimated date of arrival, address it to:

Via USPS:
Hold for Hiker (Your Name)
c/o VVR – General Delivery
Lakeshore, CA 93634

Via UPS/Fed-Ex:
Vermilion Valley Resort
c/o China Peak Landing
62311 Huntington Lake Road
Lakeshore, CA 93634

As mentioned above, Muir Trail Ranch (MTR) and VVR are less than 20 miles apart, so hikers will often pick just one to use as a resupply point. While VVR has more amenities, MTR has the benefit of being less than a mile off of the John Muir Trail at the 106-mile mark when heading southbound. Pack your resupply food in a 5-gallon plastic bucket labeled with your name and estimated date of arrival. Follow the link below to read the full resupply instructions, pay for the service, and print out the shipping label. There is a small store with a few camping supplies such as sunscreen and bug spray, but no food is available.

On the 110 miles between Muir Trail Ranch and the Whitney Portal, there is no easy, on-trail resupply point. Depending on your daily mileage, you may need one more resupply in that stretch, in which case hikers will exit from the JMT at mile 180 (southbound) to the Onion Valley trailhead via Kearsarge Pass, a 6.6-mile hike. This trailhead is still nearly 20 miles from the town of Independence, so if you don’t have someone who can meet you here with your resupply, we recommend one of the resupply packages offered by the Mt. Williamson Motel. They offer a variety of combinations within these packages with rides to and from the trailhead, overnight lodging, and a resupply bucket hold so you can pick exactly which method suits your needs.

Packing

There are so many options for backpacking gear, whether you’re aiming for comfort and durability or wanting to go ultralight. In general, though, your “big 3” is a good place to start if you’re trying to upgrade and cut down on some weight. These are your shelter, your sleep system (sleeping bag + pad), and your backpack. For hiking clothing, you typically want to avoid cotton and make sure that you have warm insulating layers for cold nights, breathable active layers to protect you from the sun during the day, and waterproof layers in case you’re caught in a storm.

The following articles share full JMT packing lists at different base weights as references. These are just starting points, so don’t feel like you need to rush out and buy a whole new kit. A lot of backpacking gear can be rented or bought used. Start with what you already have and like, and build from there. Your backpacking kit will develop organically over time as you discover your gear priorities and preferred style of hiking.

 
 

 

 

The best pair of on-the-trail footwear is the one that is comfortable all day and fits your foot. Whether that’s leather hiking boots, low-top hiking shoes, or lightweight trail running shoes, make sure you’ve done plenty of practice hikes in your chosen pair before attempting your thru-hike or you may face blisters and hot spots that you weren’t expecting. Remember, your feet will swell after hours and days of hiking, so be sure you have some extra room in the toe box to accommodate.

Trail running shoes and non-waterproof, low-top hiking shoes have the benefit of drying quickly after water crossings and being more breathable, which will prevent your feet from getting as sweaty. They have sticky rubber and lugs on the sole to help you navigate steep and unstable terrain. They also weigh less than a leather boot, which can minimize leg fatigue over cumulative hours of movement. Some hikers pair them with thin gaiters to help keep dirt and rocks from getting in the top of their shoes.

High-top hiking boots are often waterproof, and although that can be beneficial in winter and spring conditions, it does make them less breathable in hot summer conditions and slower to dry if the interior gets wet. On rocky trails, a boot can protect your foot from kicked-up rocks, and the thicker sole can make some hikers feel more stable.

Head to your local gear shop or running store to try on different styles and see what feels best for you!

Trying to plan out weeks worth of food in advance can be a daunting task, but the most important factor is to bring enough calories. Thru-hiking is hard enough and made so much more difficult if you’re “bonking”. The next thing to consider is making sure you’ll be able to fit everything in your bear canister in between resupply points. You’ll want to aim for compact and calorically dense foods, and you may need to repackage some food items to help them fit.

Nut butters, tortillas, tuna packets, and bars like Clif or ProBar are all great on-trail options that pack easily. Having both salty and sweet treats (beef jerky, dried fruit, candy, etc.) on hand can also be a great morale booster if you’re hitting a mid-afternoon energy slump. It’s easy to get dehydrated hiking in the sun at altitude all day, so electrolyte tablets or packets can be helpful to add to your water. At dinner, make sure you’re getting enough calories and protein to help you sleep through the night and wake up ready to hike again! Some hikers will dehydrate their own meals before hitting the trail, others use prepackaged dehydrated backpacking meals like Mountain House or Backpacker’s Pantry, and some will cook simple meals like mac and cheese, lentils, or mashed potatoes.

There are lots of personal hiking blogs where people list everything they brought to eat on thru-hikes, what they liked and would bring again, and what they would skip next time. Linked below are a few that showcase a variety of meals and snacks to give you a starting point.

 

 
 

 

And for even more advice, check out “The Hungry Spork: A Long Distance Hiker’s Guide to Meal Planning” by our Advisory Council member Inga Aksamit.

The JMT is very well marked, but it’s always best practice to have a paper map with you. The Tom Harrison JMT Map Pack and the National Geographic JMT Map Guide are two popular options. There are also hiking navigation apps that allow you to download routes and maps and see where you are in real time. These include Gaia, FarOut, AllTrails, CalTopo, Kamoot, and more. If relying on one of these apps, be sure you have a battery charger with enough capacity to guarantee that you can use your phone every day of your trip.

Personal locator beacons (PLBs) and satellite messengers have gotten smaller, cheaper, and more advanced in recent years. With these upgrades, more and more hikers are choosing to bring one, and Halfway Anywhere’s hiker survey noted that 83% of JMT hikers in 2023 carried one. They have numerous abilities including navigation, weather forecasting, two-way messaging, route tracking, and, in case of a true emergency, the ability to call for Search and Rescue.

On the Trail

The high-elevation peaks and passes of the Sierra Nevada are what make the JMT so extraordinary, but they also require acclimatization and better fitness than your average day hike. If possible before your trip, try to get in a couple of hikes above 8,000′ so you know how your body reacts. Increase your hydration and move slower to minimize altitude impacts. If possible, we recommend taking a Wilderness First Aid class so you’ll be prepared to recognize health issues more quickly within yourself and your group. Read the linked article below for a detailed description of the different stages of altitude sickness- Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), and High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)- and if in doubt about the severity of the issue, always opt to descend to a lower elevation.

Going to the bathroom in the backcountry- don’t be shy, it’s an important topic! If you’re prepared with the proper tools and a good attitude, it doesn’t have to be daunting, and you’re sure to have better views than in your home bathroom.

Start by finding a secluded spot 200 feet from water or trails. You’ll need to dig a hole at least 6 inches deep. There are many lightweight plastic or aluminum trowels on the market to help you dig in compacted, rocky soil, and most have a built-in ruler to check the depth of your cathole. These measures help prevent the spread of disease and maintain clean waterways. You must pack out any toilet paper you use- do not bury it. Opaque doggie waste bags are a good option for storing used tp, and then you can put those within another zip-top plastic bag. Fill your hole back in and don’t forget to use hand sanitizer. Many on-trail illnesses are spread through groups by poor bathroom hygiene and then preparing food.

 

The Whitney Zone, which the JMT hiker will be within from Trail Crest to Mt. Whitney’s summit and then almost all the way down to Whitney Portal, has its own bathroom rules. If you need to poop while hiking or camping in that zone, you’ll use a WAG bag and hike your waste out with you. It’s not the most pleasant task, but this region is so fragile and sees such heavy traffic that this is required to help mitigate human impact.

 

For women, a Kula Cloth (an antimicrobial pee cloth) is a great alternative to toilet paper or drip drying. It’s odor-free, quick-drying, and snaps to your pack. It’s become a staple among female thru-hikers in recent years for improved hygiene and ease.

Black bears abound in the Sierra, especially below treeline in the forests under 10,000′. The biggest issue you’ll face with bears is them trying to get into your food, and some of them are very clever! It is required to carry a bear canister on the JMT. There are multiple styles to purchase, or you can rent them from outdoor gear stores including Elevation Sierra Adventure in Lone Pine, Sage to Summit in Bishop, Mammoth Mountaineering & Supply in Mammoth Lakes, staffed Wilderness Centers in Yosemite and Tuolumne, or check your local gear shop or university outdoor program.

All smellable items must be placed in your bear canister, which means not just your food, but also scented hygiene products like toothpaste and soap. Important to note is that bear cans come in different sizes, so be sure to check that you can fit your longest stretch of food between resupplies into the canister you choose. This may require you to repackage certain food items to make everything fit.

Blisters are the bane of many hikers’ long mileage days. They can pop up for numerous reasons including boots that aren’t broken in, improper socks, or wet feet from water crossings. Your best chance to avoid them is to make sure you’ve done plenty of day hiking in the footwear you choose for your JMT hike. This will help you break in the shoes and alert you to any problem areas before you’re 40 miles into your trip and limping! Additionally, opt for wool socks that will dry quickly and help your feet regulate temperature. Be sure to stock your first aid kit with Leukotape and a needle for on-the-trail foot maintenance, and read the article below for more in-depth tips on how to manage blisters.

When selecting your campsite each night, follow the National Forest Service’s regulations:

  • Your site must be 100′ from any trail or water source.
  • You must camp on durable terrain such as hard-packed dirt or rock, not meadows or vegetation.
  • You may not move rocks, build walls, or disturb soils or plants to create a campsite.

While a lot of hikers rely on backpacking apps such as FarOut or Gaia to find previously “pinned” sites from other app users, many of these are actually illegal sites and break the rules listed above. Even if you can see that someone has already camped in a particular site, it is still your responsibility to make sure it falls within the National Forest Service parameters. If you use an illegal site, a ranger can fine you and require you to move camp, and more importantly, you’ll be contributing to the degradation of sensitive alpine meadows and waterways.

Leave No Trace (LNT) is an organization whose mission is to educate people and protect the outdoors. Their set of 7 principles helps us all recreate more sustainably and protect the environment, waters, and wildlife on our public lands.

  1. Plan ahead & prepare
  2. Travel & camp on durable surfaces
  3. Dispose of waste properly
  4. Leave what you found
  5. Minimize campfire impacts
  6. Respect wildlife
  7. Be considerate of others

Read more about each of the 7 principles here:

 

Below is a link to a PDF with our Conservancy’s mission and a short list of backcountry best practices to help guide your decisions while hiking.

The Sierra Nevada sees its fair share of afternoon thunderstorms in the summer months. Even a storm that seems far away can bring serious danger of lightning strikes. There is no 100% safe place in the backcountry during a storm, but some risks can be mitigated by making smart choices throughout your day, such as trying to get over mountain passes in the morning instead of mid-afternoon. Linked below is a PDF created by the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Association (NOAA) about encountering lightning in the backcountry. Be sure to read it thoroughly and learn “lightning position” and what terrain to aim for if caught in a thunderstorm.

Sierra Nevada translates to “snowy mountain range”, so it should come as no surprise that hikers may encounter snow even in the summer months. After a particularly heavy snow year, parts of the trail may not melt out at all before the first snow falls again in September! Especially on the northern aspect of passes, hikers should be prepared to cross snow fields and navigate even if the trail is not visible.

Depending on the amount of snow, hikers may choose to bring additional gear. The most common, and likely all you will need unless hiking very early in the season, is microspikes. These are comprised of a stretchy “harness” that slips on over your running shoes or hiking boots with short, metal spikes across the bottom. They are quick to put on and provide significant traction on snow and ice. In steeper terrain, crampons and ice axes can be crucial, but the average JMT hiker will not need these. The article below discusses snow travel techniques and gear.

 
This is a great write-up of what it can be like to travel through the High Sierra after a record-breaking winter like the one we experienced in 2022/2023.

 

Along with steep slopes that could cause you to fall, the biggest danger that comes with snow travel is snow bridges. When water travels under a snowfield, it can melt away the snow above it, leaving just a thin layer of snow that may be indistinguishable from the thicker snow around it. Stepping on a section like this can cause the snow bridge to collapse making you fall into the icy water below. When approaching snowfields, look and listen for water and step carefully. Also, rocks heat up in the sun and radiate heat. If the snowfield crosses talus, keep a wide berth from rocks poking out of the snow- it is likely undercut and melted out farther from the rock than you may realize.

 

Our Field Program Manager Nicole Schrad showcases a thin snow bridge that isn’t visible from above.

Due to the variable weather and heavy snowpack in the Sierra, roads and trails can open at different times each year, or sometimes face summer season closures. Linked below are the four main agencies covering the JMT so you can check your entry trailheads and roads. 
 

 

 

 

Water crossings are one of the most dangerous things a hiker will face, and it’s important to slow down and assess the situation to keep yourself and your group safe. If there’s not a bridge or designated rock steps, take a moment to walk along the bank and assess. Are there branches or rocks downstream that you may get tangled in if you get swept away? Is the log you’re going to walk across wet and slick? Is the current running at different speeds at different depths?

Unbuckle your pack before you start across so that you can slip it off if you fall. Use your trekking poles to steady you. Keep your shoes on for more solid footing (they’ll dry quickly enough as you’re hiking) and make sure your foot is firmly planted before taking your next step. Linked below is an in-depth article from the Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA) about safely handling water crossings.

Although you may still encounter some old-school hikers who believe you don’t need to filter water in the Sierra, that is a very risky chance to take these days. With the amount of people recreating in the backcountry, plus pack stock, you need to filter your water on the JMT to prevent illness. Check the responses under the Hiker Surveys section below to see how many people reported getting giardia last year from not filtering their water!

Many hikers rely on lightweight “squeeze” filter options such as the Katydyn BeFree or Sawyer Squeeze because of their ease and the fact that they don’t leave an aftertaste in your water. If you’re hiking in a larger group, it may be more efficient to use something like the Platypus GravityWorks. It can also be a good idea to carry a backup option to these filters such as Aquamira drops or iodine tablets just in case something breaks or punctures.

Weather in the backcountry can change dramatically between different elevations and aspects. We recommend using the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Point Forecast. You can choose a location and get the overall weather forecast, and then you can click on the map to get more detailed weather forecasts for specific locations. For example, if you search Yosemite Valley, you’ll get the general weather for the area, and then you can find Cathedral Pass on the map and get the exact forecast for that point at 9,700′.

Resources

There are two very active Facebook groups where you can find information about trail conditions, permits, and more. Both are wonderful resources and on the “John Muir Trail Hikers 2024” page, you’ll find our Advisory Council member, Inga Aksamit, answering many of the questions posed to the group.

 

There are a few different groups that conduct yearly surveys of JMT hikers once they finish the trail. These can be useful to find information about a variety of topics including commonly used gear, on-trail issues, hiker demographics, and even favorite trail snacks! Linked below is the Halfway Anywhere 2023 JMT Survey results.

If you’re looking to get a comprehensive overview before hitting the trail, we highly recommend Elizabeth Wenk’s “John Muir Trail: The Essential Guide to Hiking America’s Most Famous Trail.” In it, Wenk breaks down the trail into sections with maps, detailed hiking information, campsite suggestions, and so much more. It’s a fantastic reference and will help immensely in planning your trip.

 

Another great reference book is “Wildflowers of the High Sierra and John Muir Trail“, also by Elizabeth Wenk. She includes photos and descriptions of nearly 300 wildflowers along with their geographic and elevation growing ranges and tips for identifying them so you can be on the lookout while you hike!

 

The classic and comprehensive field guide for the Range of Light is “The Laws Field Guide to the Sierra Nevada” by naturalist and artist John Muir Laws. With richly detailed illustrations of trees, flowers, fungi, mammals, birds, aquatic creatures, and insects, it covers nearly every bit of life you can encounter in the Sierra.